3. Details and Finishing:

Adding the "wings" (the Japanese term is fukageshi, but only a geek would know that...). These were simply formed by shaping strips of plastic on a pipe with a heat gun, I actually formed mine on a bicycle frame. Add any studs to the front of the wings before attaching them to the hat, I put big pyramid studs on mine. The wings were attached with styrene cement and the join was reinforced with pop rivets.

Rivet heads were added to give a more primitive look. These were made by using a leather punch to punch holes in scrap plastic. This is a good task to give the less skilled members of the horde and to keep them away from power tools, (you know who you are). The resulting discs were cemented along the edges of the bands. Larger rivets and studs were represented by metal spots made for leather. Each helm has a unique pattern.

The next step involves a little customization, for my hat I wanted horns. I found a nice pair on a plastic Viking helmet (actually MyLord, Vikings didn't wear horns, blah, blah, blah), the helm also had a nice spike I decided to use. I carefully cut holes to match the holes in the Viking hat, so I could just slide the horns in from the inside. As no cement would affect the unholy plastic of the Viking hat I simply filled the spike with Bondo and attached it to the top with a screw through the cured Bondo.

The helm has the basic shape, but looks a little too smooth and plasticy, I wanted them to look rough from the hammer, The hammer of a Goblin smith! AHAHAHAHAHA! err...

After a little experimentaion I discovered that Jassco Paint and Epoxy Remover dabbed (rather than brushed) onto plastic creates a nice rough metal texture. A warning - this stuff will eat through skin, wear serious rubber gloves and eye protection. for a rougher texture use a thicker coat, for deep pits and bubbling let it dry out in the sun. I let it set overnight.